Glycerin Melt & Pour Instructions

 
Melt the Soap in a Double Boiler

If you do not have a double boiler you can improvise by placing metal utensils in to bottom of a pan, fill with an inch or two of water and set a smaller pan on top of the metal utensils. Your goal is not to have the soap pan directly over the heating element. This will cause your soap to get too hot. You will want to keep the double boiler covered to prevent a thick layer of soap from drying on the top of the melted soap and to prevent moisture loss. A microwave can be used safely with some soap bases. Each soap base is formulated differently so check with your manufacturer. Melt the soap base slowly and try to avoid boiling. If it does boil, don't worry..it will probably be just fine.

Add Fragrance

Use cosmetic grade fragrances. Once the soap base has turned to liquid, remove it from the heat. Add your cosmetic grade fragrance oils. The maximum amount of fragrance oils you should use are 1 Tablespoon per pound of soap base. You can use less, the fragrance intensity is up to you. You should note that different fragrances may naturally color your base. For example, vanilla may change the color of the soap to a lovely caramel while many florals will turn slightly yellow and spices will turn slightly brown. The color change may not be immediate. You may find that it is weeks later that your soap has changed color due to the fragrance. There really isn't anyway to get around this...it is part of using quality fragrances. You can always color the soap to hide the potential fragrance color in the soap.

 Add Colorant

For your protection, Use cosmetic grade colorants. Cosmetic grade colors meet very strict guidelines and give you the most protection. Immediately after adding the fragrance, you will want to add a cosmetic grade colorant. Add the color very slowly because it is easier to make it darker and impossible to remove color. If you are using color creams you will want to microwave the cream for 20 seconds in the microwave and mix with a small amount of melted soap. Once mixed, you can then add the small mixture to the larger batch of soap. If you are planning to one day reproduce your soap, you may want to use specific measurements so you can repeat your creation. Feel free to mix colors.

Other Additives

Now is the time you will want to customize your soap and add any other additives. If you choose to add ingredients such as sweet almond oil or aloe vera please remember that it will decrease the soap's clarity and lather. If you add oils you will also need to add a preservative because the oil will mold overtime. Other additives that are fun in soap are cosmetic grade glitter, pumice and goat's milk. Ground Oatmeal makes a wonderful scrub.

The best way to use herbs in soap is to add dry, finely powdered herbs to the fats before adding the lye/water. Use anywhere from 1 tablespoon to 1/4 cup dried herbs to 1 lb. soap. Coarsely ground herbs should be restricted to about 1 or 2 tablespoons per lb. soap because they contribute a coarseness to the soap that sometimes makes it uncomfortable during use. The nicest way to add properties of herbs to soap is the addition of pure essential oils. Most soap develops a "lye/fat" odor, which essential oil prevents. Use anywhere from 1 teaspoon to 2 tablespoons essential oil per lb. soap (depending on the strength of the oil). Color is an illusive thing as far as soap is concerned. Natural colors can be obtained by adding 2 tablespoons red clay, calendula petals, or palm oil (yellow).

Pour Into Molds

Look for professional soap molds. You will find they last longer and well worth the investment. Pour your soap into the soap mold. Let the air bubbles rise to the top. Lightly spray the top of the liquid soap base with rubbing alcohol and the bubbles will disappear. The easiest way to get the soap to release from the mold is to place it in the freezer for 20 minutes. Let it sit for several minutes. As the mold warms up it will expand and the soap will pop out.

As soon as your soap is hard it is ready to use. If you want to sell your soap you will want to wrap and seal it. Options are plastic wrap, shrink wrap or cello bags. This will ensure that the fragrance will stay strong until the soap is used. 

Melt first oil (hard oil) and pour two ounces into 8oz Pyrex measuring cup. Add two ounces of beeswax beads (total of four ounces in cup). Add wax colorant if desired. Melt together in microwave. Now add the liquid vegetable oil. Use 2 ounces for a hard bar, which would bring your total to 6 ounces or 3 ounces for a softer bar for a total of 7 ounces. Stir to mix thoroughly. Add essential oil or fragrance oil when mixture has cooled slightly. Pour into small soap molds. Pop out when cool, about two hours. For best results, put in refrigerator for a few minutes before popping out of mold.

Put the 4 ounces of sweet almond oil in measuring cup, add beeswax beads and melt in microwave. Stir with spoon, and when cooled a bit, add essential or flavoring oil. Pour into lip balm jars, and when cool, label.

Bath and massage oils are made by adding essential oils to vegetable carrier oil bases. The ratio is one teaspoon of essential oil to 4 ounces of carrier oil. Use amber or cobalt blue glass for your oils and keep out of direct light. Do not store in plastic bottles. It is best not to store in the bathroom because of the heat during showers.

Bath Oils

Using essential oils in the bath is one of the nicest ways to enjoy their therapeutic benefits. Adding them to a carrier oil help to disperse the essential oils throughout the water and onto to your body. Lighter oils disperse more readily in the water. Heavier oils lie on the top of the bath water and will cling to your skin when leaving the bath. To use bath oils, draw your bath first, close the door and then add about two teaspoons of bath oil to your water

Light oils suitable for bath oils that readily disperse 
include sunflower oil and Grapeseed oil.
Sunflower oil contains vitamins A, B, D and E, (the principal one) 
and is high in unsaturated fatty acids.
Grapeseed Oil contains a high percentage of linoleic acid 
and some vitamin E.

Massage oils can be made from many different vegetable carrier oils. Choose the oil based on what you want the oil to do. Use a lighter oil if you want the oil to be absorbed readily into the skin. Use a heavier oil if you want the oil to stay on the top of the skin. You can also choose the oil by what part of the body you are working on, for example Kukui nut oil would be a perfect choice for the face and neck. A heavier oil such as sweet almond might be the choice for a foot massage for very dry feet.

1) Pour any molded candle in any color you want (scent optional).

2) Put enough water in a container (bucket, coffee can, etc.) 
to completely cover the candle when dipped.

3) Surface tension in the water will cause water droplets to form on the candle but you can avoid this by using Borax. Put enough Borax in the water so that when the candle is dipped you have very few or no water droplets.

4) Then use poster paints (any oil based paint will do) on the surface of the water. Drop them in in a swirling pattern and swirl them with a stick of some sort, like a chopstick.

5) Then dip the candle in a twisting motion. When raising the candle from the water blow the paint away from the candle or the design will be distorted.

Dip in clear wax to coat and protect the paint and give the candle a finishing touch.

How to Make Candles 

What you will need: At least one pound (a half kilogram) of paraffin (available in many grocery stores and craft stores for about US$1 per pound) A medium-sized cooking pot (3-4 quarts/liters) An empty coffee can or stewed tomato can An old spoon or a clean, smooth stick Vegetable oil (One teaspoon per mould) A selection of clean, sturdy containers (a milk container, orange juice concentrate container, drinking glass, gelatin mold--be creative) Store-bought pre-dipped wicks (available at craft stores for about $1 per 6), or use thick cotton string to make your own wicks Optional: A selection of wax crayons in colors that you like Perfume or fragrant oil (such as sandalwood, patchouli, jasmine, etc.) An ice pick (or a 12-inch length of thick metal wire) A pound (500 g) of old candles (as an option to purchasing paraffin, you can melt down old, stubby candles from around the house) A 1/12 or 2-gallon bucket, or large bowl Sand--enough to fill that bucket mostly full 

Tips and Supply Info: For the simplest candle (one color) figure about 20-30 minutes,including heating the wax. The most complicated candles (such as a striped rainbow candle) can take quite a long time, with a day in between colors to wait for them to harden-- at least an hour total for such a candle Double boiler: a cooking tool that consists of two pots that fit neatly on top of each other. The lower pot holds water that is heated by the stove and turned into steam; this steam in turn heats the contents of the upper pot. It's a gradual way of warming up any substance. Since real double boilers are expensive, you can use a regular pot for the lower pot, and a coffee can (or other large can) for the upper pot. It's fine if the coffee can just sits in the water of the lower pot. 

Mold: a container that defines the shape of a candle, i.e. it's what you pour the melted wax into. Make your own--it's fun and cheap. If you do spill wax, the best thing to do is wait for it to harden. Apply an ice cube to the wax and chip it off.  Remove Stains for more details. Make a base for any candle by pouring a half inch (1 or 2 cm) of wax into a round or rectangular mold. When the wax cools but hasn't completely hardened, remove the wax base from the mold and place it on waxed paper. Press a completely solidified candle into the wax base and leave it alone for an hour. A new beginning: If you mar the surface of the candle during the unmolding stage, you can re-dip the candle in melted wax. You'll have a nice smooth coat to cover up any nasty marks. 

A new beginning: If you mar the surface of the candle during the unmolding stage, you can re-dip the candle in melted wax. You'll have a nice smooth coat to cover up any nasty marks.  Although store-bought candles are expensive, you can make your own with minimal expense. It's an opportunity to express yourself creatively, and you get a useful and gratifying craftwork to use at the end. Just imagine basking in the glow of a candle you made yourself. 

Candle-making is simple--an absolute beginner can create great candles on the first try. You simply melt paraffin (the basic material of candles) and pour it into whatever mold pleases your eye. Putting in the wick takes a bit of care, but after that, you're done. Best of all, the necessary materials are inexpensive--you probably have some at home already. It's a good idea to cover your work area with newspaper or waxed paper--dried wax can be difficult to remove from some surfaces. And don't plan on pouring wax over your kitchen sink--if you spill the wax, it'll stop up the drain. 

Be aware that wax is flammable at high temperatures. Wax while it is heating should never be left unattended. It should also never be heated to the point that it sputters or smokes. If it should catch fire, cover it with a lid and turn off the stove. Never pour water on a wax fire. Prepare a mold - this mold will define the shape of your candle. Professionals use precise, expensive molds made from very durable materials, but you don't have to. You can create a mold with a variety of disposable food or beverage containers that you can reuse and give a new usefulness. 

Some guidelines: Make sure the mold has a mouth that's wider than the base so your candle can slide out easily. Oil the inside of the mold with vegetable oil. This will allow for easy removal--you don't want to have to gouge out your newly wrought creation. Don't use soup cans--they have ridges that will prevent the removal the finished candle. Set up your double boiler Wax should never be heated directly in a pot; instead always heat wax indirectly with a store-bought double boiler or a double boiler improvised in the kitchen. 

Since wax can be difficult to remove from pots, you'll probably want to improvise a double boiler with a coffee can in a pot of water. Put a medium-sized pot on the stove, filled with a couple of inches of water, on high heat. Place a clean coffee can in the water while it is heating. There should always be some water in the pot, but not so much that it bounces the can around. Eventually the combined weight of the can and the wax will be heavy enough to keep the can from bouncing around in the water. Melt the paraffin 

While your water is warming up, you can start placing the wax in the coffee can. If you prefer, you may use old candles, or a combination or paraffin and old candles. Measure the wax: figure 1/4 pound of wax per orange juice container. Cut up the paraffin into small chunks, and place it in the can. If you're using old candles, choose colors that will mix well. You'll also want to clip off any charred wick ends. Stir with an old spoon or stick. If there are any old candles in the mix, take a fork and pull out any old wicks that have been freed from the old candles. 

Color the wax (Optional) Crayons are the best way to color candles. One candle per 1/4 pound of wax provides a deep, rich color. Mix different colored crayons and see what you can come up with. Combining half of a white crayon in with half of a colored crayon makes a softer color. Nice effect! Break crayons into small pieces. When the wax is nearly melted, drop the crayons into the coffee can. Stir to mix color thoroughly. Make your own wicks (Optional) Cut thick cotton string about three inches longer than your mold will require. When your wax is melted, dip cotton string in wax. Hang your wicks from a clothesline or place them on waxed paper, being sure to lay them out in a straight line so you'll have nice straight wicks when you need them later. 

Scent your wicks: If you are making your own wicks, you have the option of scenting the wicks rather than the candles. Before dipping wicks in wax, soak the wicks in a fragrance or perfume Pour the wax Remove the can from the boiling water. You'll want to use a pot holder or a kitchen cloth for this. Let the wax cool for a minute or two before being poured into the mold. Note: if you want a scented candle, now's the time to add the scent. Mix the perfume or fragrant oils into the cooling wax, and remember to experiment with the amount of fragrance you prefer. Tilt the mold slightly, towards the can. This will improve the chances of neat, spill-free transfer. 

Pour wax slowly into the mold. Leave a little space at the top edge--it'll make candle removal easier. Insert the wick You'll need a pencil to lay across the mouth of the mold in order to hold the wick in place while the wax hardens. Measure the wick. Take the wicks (store-bought or homemade) and lay them along the length of the mold. Add an extra 3/4 inch of string for the protruding section of wick, plus an extra inch or two to wrap around the pencil. Insert the wick into the center of the mold. Notice the amount of wick that remains outside the mold. If you have an extra five inches, the wick hasn't reached the base of the candle. Wrap the end of the wick around the pencil. This holds the wick in the center of the wax while it cools. Most candles need at least a day before you remove them from the mold. Even though your candle may look hardened, the wax inside is probably still not solid. 

Don't rush the cooling process, or your fine efforts will be undone. You might also want to top off the candle a few times with leftover wax (of the same color) as it's drying. Candle wax shrinks as it dries, so topping it off will keep it from settling (and possibly sinking) in the center. Remove the candle from the mold Be patient while removing your candle, or it might be damaged by your hastiness. 

For paper molds such as a toilet paper core or a milk carton, simply tear the paper away from the candle. For molds of other materials, try turning the mold upside down and tapping the bottom of the mold. If the candle doesn't slide out, carefully insert a knife between the candle and the mold. Jiggle the knife into that space, prying very slighly (just a little bit) against the side of the mold. If it still won't slip out, insert the knife into the opposite side of the mold and do some more jiggling. If your candle still won't budge, immerse the mold in very hot water for a few seconds. This will slightly melt the outside of the candle and it should slide out. 

Make textured candles This technique uses sand as a mold, leaving you some freedom to create a mold of your own design. And removing a candle from this mold couldn't be easier. Fill a bucket 3/4 full with clean sand. Dig in the sand and to create an interesting shape. You can make some very lovely rounded candles using this method. Slowly, carefully, pour the melted wax into the hole in the sand. The sand will stick to the outside of the candle, making a interesting texture. 

Insert wick, method 2 Some molds require that the wick be inserted after the wax is hardened and removed from the mold, such as sand mold and gelatin mold candles. Remove the candle from the mold. Heat an ice pick or a length of straight, thick wire--a straightened wire hanger might work well here--over an open flame from a stove or...a candle. If you're using a wire, be sure to wrap the end with a cloth or hold it with a pot holder so you don't get burned. Insert the heated pick or wire through the body of the candle. If it cools and stops melting the candle, simply reheat it and continue melting through the candle. Insert the wick into the hole you've just created. Pour a small amount of melted wax on the top of the candle to secure the wick if it seems loose. Once the candle is lit, any gaps between the wick and the body of the candle will be filled in with melting wax. 

Make rainbow candles Rainbow-striped candles take more time, but if you can make a solid-colored candle, you can make a rainbow candle. Here's the technique: you simply pour small amounts of wax, layer upon layer, with each layer a different color of the rainbow. The result? They're beautful and they make wonderful gifts. Plan the colors you're going to use and decide how many stripes you want to create. Melt a small portion of wax and color it. Pour it into the mold of your choice. Insert the wick at this point. Wait until the first bit of wax is completely hardened. Don't rush this process. (You might want to make rainbow candles an ongoing process, where you pour a little wax in every time you are making other candles.) 

Melt your next bit of wax and color it accordingly. Let the wax of your second color (and all remaining colors) cool down for a few minutes before pouring it into the mold. Note: If you pour really hot wax on top of an earlier layer, it might melt the previous color, resulting in a mix of colors. This may or may not be desirable, depending on your taste. Continue adding colors until your candle is complete.

If you do not have a double boiler, you can use a metal pitcher or similar container to hold the wax. Place this container into a larger pan containing water. Place a screen wire under the melting container to allow hot water to circulate underneath it. Place broken pieces of wax into the melting container and turn on the burner. When the wax begins to melt, place a thermometer in the melting container. If necessary, add water to the larger pan to maintain an adequate volume of water while heating the wax. 

When wax is melted, add any dyes. (Remember that liquid wax will usually appear a bit lighter than when the wax has hardened.) The wax is ready to pour at 165 to 185 degrees. The hottest temperature the wax will reach when using a double boiler is 190-195 degrees. Wipe any moisture off the melting container before pouring the wax into your mold.